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Material

Stainless 303 & 304 Parts

Corrosion resistance for food, fluid, and outdoor work.

303 and 304 cover most jobs that just need to be stainless. 303 is the free-machining grade: the right pick for turned fittings, shafts, and standoffs where machining time dominates the cost. 304 is the general-purpose grade: weldable, food-safe, and a touch more corrosion-resistant. Call the grade out on your print, or describe the environment and the team will flag which one fits. Quotes in 24-48 hours through the quote form.

Updated June 2026

Stainless 303 / 304

Corrosion resistance for food, fluid, marine, and outdoor hardware. 303 trades a little of that for easier cutting.

Strength
Weight (lower is lighter)
Machinability

Typical parts

  • Shafts & pins
  • Fluid fittings
  • Food-contact hardware
  • Marine hardware
Quote a part in it

Two grades, one decision

Both are 18-8 austenitic stainless: same family, same look, similar corrosion behavior in ordinary service. The difference is a small sulfur addition in 303 that makes chips break cleanly, which means faster cycles, better as-cut surface finishes, and lower part prices on machining-heavy work. The same sulfur is why 303 welds poorly and gives up a little corrosion resistance at the margins.

So the decision is mostly about what happens to the part after machining. Nothing welded, no food contact, indoor or mild outdoor duty: 303, and pocket the savings. Welded into an assembly, washed down, touching food or potable water, or living somewhere genuinely wet: 304.

What gets made from each

303 dominates turned work: fittings, shafts, pins, standoffs, and valve and instrument components. Anywhere a lathe-shaped part needs to shrug off rust without paying a stainless premium in machining time. 304 shows up as brackets, covers, enclosures, food-process and fluid-handling parts, and anything destined for a welded frame. Typical tolerances match the rest of the site: ±0.005 in on milled features, ±0.001 in on critical turned diameters.

Passivation and finishes

Machining can leave traces of free iron on a stainless surface, and that iron, not the stainless, is what rust-stains first. Passivation, a citric- or nitric-acid bath commonly specced to ASTM A967, strips it and lets the chromium-oxide layer do its job. It’s a cheap callout that’s standard practice for food, fluid, and outdoor parts. Beyond that: bead blast for a uniform matte, brushed or polished where looks matter.

The magnet test, and when to step up to 316

Fully annealed 303 and 304 are non-magnetic, but cold work (drawn bar, machined surfaces, bent flanges) makes them mildly magnetic. A stainless part that tugs a magnet slightly isn’t counterfeit; it’s physics. If a requirement genuinely demands non-magnetic, put it on the print.

And when the environment involves chlorides (salt spray, road salt, coastal air, aggressive washdown) step up to 316, which resists pitting where 304 eventually loses. It’s quotable like everything else on the materials page.

Questions

Before you send a job.

01 Should I spec 303 or 304?

303 when the part is mostly machining and won’t be welded or see food contact: it cuts faster and quotes lower. 304 when the part gets welded, washed down, or touches food or potable water. If you’re not sure, describe the environment in the quote notes and the team will flag the fit.

02 Is 303 or 304 food-safe?

304 is the standard food-contact stainless and the safe default for anything touching food or drink. 303’s sulfur content makes it the wrong pick for direct food contact, even though it’s fine in the machinery around it. Either way, passivation is the right callout for food-service parts.

03 Why is my stainless part slightly magnetic?

Cold work. Machining, drawing, and bending transform a little of the austenite near the surface into a phase that is magnetic. It’s expected behavior in 303 and 304, not a sign of the wrong material. If a spec genuinely requires non-magnetic, say so on the print.

04 Do stainless parts need passivation?

Not always, but it’s cheap insurance. Machining can embed free iron that rust-stains the surface later; passivation per ASTM A967 removes it. Spec it for food, fluid, outdoor, and cosmetic parts. Skip it for indoor fixtures where a tea-stain would bother nobody.

05 When is 316 worth the upgrade?

Chlorides. Salt water, road salt, coastal air, washdown chemicals, and many process fluids will eventually pit 304; 316’s molybdenum buys real resistance there. It costs more and cuts slower, so reserve it for parts that need it, and call it out on the print like any other requirement.

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